Hi friends!

It's been a long time since I've written here, and I wanted to come back with a bang and give you something nice, so here's a free crochet pattern.

These are the Crochet Tulip Fingerless Mittens.

Fingerless mittens are my favorite projects to make! I love them because they are easy, fast, super cute and actually practical. I wear mine all of the time and I have about 7 different pairs.

You can follow along these instruction and come back whenever, or head over to the shop and purchase the downloadable PDF for keeps!

Materials:

Approximately 100 m of fingering (size 1)

I recommended Drops Yarn, Flora (it's a wool and alpaca blend - super soft and light). 

You'll also need scraps in 2 different colors

4.5 mm hook

Tapestry needle

Gauge: 11sc x 13 sc rows = 2” x 2” 

Abbreviations (US):

sc: simple crochet

hdc:half double crochet

ch: chain

st: stitch

sl: slip stitch

sk: skip stitches or spaces

RS: Right side

WR: Wrong side

Sc2tog: simple crochet two together 

MC: Main Color

CC: Contrasting Color

sp: space: the hole below the chain from the previous row.

5-dc cl: Triple double crochet cluster: [yo, insert hook through st,draw through, yo, pull through 2 loops] 5 times on the same st, draw through all 6 loops on the hook.

rep *to*: repeat from the first asterisk (*) to the second one (*) as many times as indicated.

V-st: make a dc, ch1, make another dc on the same st, sk2st, continue along.

Inc 1sc: increase- make 2sc instead of 1.

This pattern comes in 1 size. 

Important techniques: 

Invisible seam on the round - joining with a slst

Start the row by making 1 chain and tightening it firmly. Make your first stitch is on the st immediately at the base of your chain.  

Work the round as indicated.

When you reach the end, join the round with a sl st on the first st of the round and tighten the slst firmly.

Changing colors at the end of a round:

When you finish the round, insert your hook through the first st of the round and yarn over the new color. Let the old color drop. Finish the sl st by passing the new color yarn through all of the loops on the hook (slst).  Continue on with the round as indicated using the new color.

Cuff: 

With MCCh13 or more (as many as the desired length of the cuff) 

Row 1: starting on the 2nd ch from your hook, sc along until the end of the row, turn (12 sts) 

Row 2: starting on the 1st st, loosely slst along until the end of the row, turn (12 sts) 

Row 3: ch1, sc on each of the sl sts from the prev row, turn. (12 sts) Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 37 rows worked. Join the last row of sc with the beginning chain with sl sts on the RS. Don’t cut.

Main Body: to be worked in the round- use the invisible seam technique 

You’ll continue to work on the side of the cuff.

Row 1: ch1, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the side edge of the cuff (make sure you fit 39 sts). slst to join the round.    

Row 2: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, change to CC A and sl st to join the round, cut MC (39 sts).  

Row 3: With CC A, ch1, tighten, ch2 (counts as a st), ch1, dc on the st at the base of the ch4 (this counts like your first V st) *make a V st* rep *to* until the end of the round, change to CC B and sl st on the 3rd ch from the beginning to join the round, cut CCA (13 Vsts - 39 sts)

Row 4: With CC B, ch3 (ch3 counts like a st, tighten 1st ch), *make a 5-dc cl on the next ch1sp from the V st on the prev row, ch2* rep *to* 11 times, make a 5-dc cl on the next ch1sp from the V st on the prev row, ch1, change to MC and sl st on 3rd ch from the beginning to join the round, cut CC B (13 5-dc cl, 39 sts)

Row 5: With MC, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round: 2sc in each chsp, slst to join the round. (39 sts) 

Row 6: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, slst to join the round. (39 sts)

Start Thumb: 

(RIGHT THUMB) Row 7: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, 29sc (place a marker on the 29th st), inc 1 st on the next 2 sts, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (41 sts)

(LEFT THUMB) Row 7: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, 8sc (place a marker on the 7th st), inc 1 st on the next 2 sts, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (41 sts).

*you will need to carry the marker on the same stitch for the next 15 rows. The easiest way to do this is to use a scrap piece of yarn and put it over the actively working strand before the marked st is to be worked on every row.  

Row 8 - 9: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (41 sts) 

Row 10: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, inc 1 st, 2sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (43 sts) 

Row 11 - 12: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (43 sts) 

Row 13: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, inc 1 st, 4sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (45 sts) 

Row 14 - 15: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (45 sts) 

Row 16: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, inc 1 st, 6sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (47 sts) 

Row 17 - 18: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (47 sts) 

Row 19: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, inc 1 st, 8sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (49 sts) 

Row 20 - 21: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (49 sts) 

Row 22: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker and carry it to the next row, inc 1 st, 10sc, inc 1st, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (51 sts) 

Row 23: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the marker, remove marker, ch2, sk 14sts, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (39 sts)  

Row 24: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round: 1sc on each st, 1sc on each ch, slst to join. (39sts) 

Row 25-32: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the end of the round, slst to join. (39 sts) 

Row 33 ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the end of the round, change to CC A and sl st to join the round, don’t cut MC (39 sts). 

Row 34: With CC A, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc to the end of the round, change colors to CC B before the slst join, cut CC A. (39 sts) 

Row 35: With CC B, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, *sc, ch1, sk1st,* rep *to*  until the end of the round, change colors to MC by picking up the strand left 2 rows back before the slst join, cut CC B. (39 sts)  

Row 36: With MC, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round: 1sc on each st, 1sc on each chsp, slst to join. (39 sts)  

Row 37: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, hdc along the round, slst to join. (39 sts) 

Row 38: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, hdc along working only on the loop at the back of the st (behind the “v”), slst to join. (39 sts)  

Row 39: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along working only on the loop at the back of the st, slst to join. Fasten off and cut. (39 sts)

Thumb 

Row 1: Attach yarn to the unused loop from the right chain made on row 23 on the RS, 

 ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc on the ch, sc on the corner st, 14 sc along the thumb edge, sc on the corner st, sc on the other ch from row 23, slst to join. (18 sts) 

Row 2: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc2tog, 14sc along the round, sc2tog, slst to join. (16 sts) 

Row 3: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc2tog, 12sc along the round, sc2tog, slst to join. (14 sts) 

Row 4: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, slst to join. (14 sts) 

Row 5: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, change colors to CCA and slst to join, don’t cut MC. (14 sts) 

Row 6: With CCA, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round, change colors to CCB and slst to join, cut CC A. (14 sts) 

Row 7: With CCB, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, *sc, ch1* rep *to* until the end of the round, change colors to MC by picking up the strand and slst to join, cut CC B. (14 sts) 

Row 8: With MC, ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along the round (1sc on each st, 1 sc on each chsp), slst to join. (14 sts) 

Row 9: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, hdc along the round, slst to join. (14 sts) 

Row 10: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, hdc along working only on the loop at the back of the st (behind the “v”), slst to join. (14 sts) 

Row 11: ch1 and tighten, starting at the base of the ch1, sc along working only on the loop at the back of the st, slst to join. (14 sts)   

Finishing touches:

● Weave in all ends.

● Block your work. 

Thank you for making my pattern! I hope you enjoyed the process and that your mittens fits just right. Please contact me if you have any questions or comments at nomadstitchesdesigns@gmail.com. And if you would like to see more Nomad Stitches designs, visit my shop at www.NomadStitches.com or find me on Instagram @nomadstitches. Don’t forget to tag your work #forevernomad #nomadstitches. I can't wait to see all of the cute mittens you will make!

Happy Stitching!

Sandra